Class IV

At the risk of being redundant, I want to specifically write about Class IV climbing. It is arguably the most dangerous part of mountaineering for many climbers, and can be the most intimidating; it is hard or slow to protect with rope, and falls can vary from "of consequence" to deadly. Class IV, when exposed, can be terrifying for any climber, especially those less seasoned. I read a great article about this subject, and I found myself in constant agreement with the author. It is certainly worth a read.

I myself do feel better on ropes, with sheer vertical. I still feel safer within the context of rope systems, anchors, and the like, than I do on class IV without ropes. Yes- often the climb is easy, even if the rock in the Cascades is often crumbly and rotten- but it can be absolutely intimidating. In fact it can simply be miserable to climb under such conditions, where one wrong step, or a crumbly hold can lead to an ugly, violent fall, and ultimately to one's demise. It is a slow process accepting the vertigo inducing nature of mountains; each climb it gets more comfortable, more easy.

I will refrain from talking about whether or not certain situations are safer with a rope, or in fact less safe with rope. I think people must use judgment that comes with time, and their own perceptions.

Anyway, rather than re-write a well written article, I thought I'd pass along the link.